KEP

This past weekend we discovered the beautiful town of Kep (pronounced Kipe). Having spent nearly two months in Phnom Penh, we ventured out with one purpose: to see if natural beauty actually does reside in this country. Of course we had seen lovely sunsets behind rice fields and palm trees—which is a beautiful sight—but we wanted more. We wanted forests. We wanted hills. We wanted water. We wanted bamboo bungalows and hammocks from which to watch that sun sink into the ocean. (...Man, four months of seeing the world makes you pretty picky, eh?)

Everything we were hoping to find in Kep, we found!




For $3.50 a person, we caught the 7:30am bus from Phnom Penh, and four hours later we arrived in Kep—much to the relief of the gal in front of us...and us too, for that matter (what would a hot, crammed bus ride be without the token passenger who forgot their gravol?) Truthfully, the bus ride was one of my favourite parts. It was fascinating to see everyday life for thousands of people (and animals) in the villages. People bathing in lily ponds. Pigs, goats and cows chowing down on everything and anything. Half-naked children sitting and watching the world pass them by. Workers fixing tires. Women selling fruit, vegetables, and meat. Men wading through rice fields. Fisherman flinging fish into nets.


According to books we’ve read, Kep was the place to be in the 20’s, especially for the French. Vine-covered skeletal remains of colonial estates still perch upon hillsides. Today, most beach-seekers head to Sihanoukville for sun and sand, though Kep is all too quickly being (re-)discovered by the masses. And for good reason: clear, warm, turquoise water; an endless supply of fresh crabs to feast upon; and, best of all, motos to rent for $4. No credit card or passport or deposit required. Just four crisp $1 bills and you’ve got 100 mean cc’s that’ll take you to glory(!!!)...or in my case, it’ll take you to do a nose dive into a garden; lucky for me, the only casualties were a busted flower pot, a scraped leg and a very wounded ego. But memories. It’s all about the memories, right? And, I can proudly say: I learned to drive a moto. Cross another thing of the list of things to do life!


Another day we hopped aboard a boat and set sail to Rabbit Island. We did a lot of sitting, some reading, a bit of exploring, plenty of eating and drinking, a ton of chatting, and some of the best swimming we’ve done in a long time.





(Above: A man shimmying up the tree to harvest coconuts)


So. Kep was great! Most of all, it was fantastic to breath fresh air, be in great company, and see a bit more of this beautiful country we’re calling home (...for now).


(Above: Whose the stud in the photo? That's James. Who's the other guy? Meet Tom. One of the coolest yankees trodding the globe. He's doing similar work as we are in Phnom Penh. Thanks to Tom, we've had someone besides each other to hang out with and talk to in this country; he is fantastic!)

Week 6...check!

Well, Week 6 is in the books. It was a fine week, indeed. Not too much out of the ordinary, but that’s what made it pretty great. I love our “routine” here!

Without a doubt, the highlight of our week was the arrival of 4 very cute, very wee puppies!

English classes went well—on Thursday (our last class of the week) students in each of our 6 classes had “ah-hah!” moments...the moments every teacher works for.


Our evenings were good. Cribbage. Students’ Bible study. Khmer language lessons. And Bauer.

And, now, we’re back in the city for the weekend, or at least for the night. Tomorrow Tom, James and I are taking to the jungle for a little adventure in the coastal town of Kep on the Gulf of Thailand. Should be good...



(After baking up a storm with a few girls, we were loading the trays into the fridge when I set one on the floor for a second while I made space; somehow my husband's foot found its way to the centre of the tray...don't ask me how? What a charmer...)




KNOM DTAU KMAE

Well, we’ve been here for a month and a half now, and I think it is safe to say that this place is growing on us. For example, consider some of last week’s events, a (now) typical “week-in-the-life-of” thewegenasts@yahoo.ca:

TUESDAY:

We woke up before 6:30 to the cacophony of roosters, cows, and screaming children. Oh well- this is a small price to pay for keeping the windows open at night. It starts to get hot here at sunup and doesn’t relent until 8 or 9 in the evening. Anyway, we crawled out from our blue bug-proof cage, got dressed, and decided to start the day with a cup- er... bag- of coffee. The walk is only a couple of kms., and besides, what else is there to do? So, off we went, dodging a couple of cows and saying hi to our kids as they rode to school, when all of a sudden a van pulled up beside us and offered us a ride. Turns out it was the ladies from Rescue off to the market to buy their daily rations, so of course we obliged. But, like any other van in this country, there were more than 20 people inside. Nonetheless, the ladies in the front seat got out to let us ride shotgun, while they piled into the back. I’m telling you, these people have hearts of gold. We got dropped off at the corner, took our drinks to-go, and headed back for a breakfast of duck eggs and mashed bananas.

Later that day I watched my wife hop on the back of a motorcycle driven by a 15 year old girl. Turns out the two of them (both helmetless) needed to pick up some Kool-Aid for the 34 kids invading our house for Bible study that night. Cool, eh? I am actually kind of jealous.

That night during Bible study we had 2 uninvited guests show up. The lizards were about a foot long with tales the diameter of a dime. One of them actually had the audacity to show up in the living room and interrupt the study. Oh well- they keep the bugs away.

THURSDAY:

Today Oye, our fabulous in-house cook, showed us how to make a variety of Khmer salad called “Kneom” (or something to that effect) and it was delicious. I’m pretty sure we consume about 40 cloves of garlic a week- no kidding. We finished off classes for the week with a little one on one tutoring with some kids who are having some trouble. Rescue has a set of rather dated children’s readers featuring a shoeless giant and some talking animals that the kids seem to get a kick out of. Kids like the funniest things.


FRIDAY:

I woke up on a mission to get a hair cut. We met our neighbour on the way and she referred me to a place “on this side of the sewer on 310 where an old guy and a young guy do haircuts for 50 cents”. With her help, I had no trouble finding the place. The barber shop was a little shack with 2 chairs and a locked instrument box where the scissors are kept. The radio was plugged in to the only outlet on the wall, meaning that the buzz cut I got was done by hand with a sort of pump-action hand clipper. Before he started, my face was dusted with some sort of powder. Start to finish, the visit was a surprisingly long 40 minutes, but that included a nose hair trim, and a shave with a straight blade. The ‘do is actually kind of funny looking, but for 50 cents I thought it a real bargain.
A bit sketchy? You bet. Would I do it again? Absolutely.



SATURDAY:

Went to the gym and immediately after Julie hopped off the treadmill the power went off, killing the American pop music blasting through the speakers and the vibrating massage belts. Nobody flinched.

Another thing we’ve picked up here is a bit more of a handle on the language. It’s fun negotiating with the tuk-tuk drivers and fruit vendors in Khmer. They actually give you a better deal if you speak Cambodian. Julie and I have fun with it too- taking turns trying to see who can get the best deal. Friday I directed a tuk-tuk driver all the way to Tuol Koak (15 minutes away) completely in Khmer, and today (Sunday) Julie managed to get 8 mangoes for a buck fifty [cp. 2 for $1.80 in the supermarket]. Khmer will always sound funny coming from a white person, but by just being willing to learn, it is interesting how the locals respect you.

Six weeks ago if you were to tell me this was what Cambodia would be like, I probably wouldn’t have believed you, but now that this is our temporary home- events such as these are commonplace, and for us, for now, it’s just dandy.

A KHMER FEAST


We crowed about Italian culinary masterpieces—the cheese, the wine, the gelato. We savoured the falafels in Egypt, the masala dishes of India, and—let’s be honest—nearly everything and anything in between. Food has not been disappointing on this journey, and the food we found in Cambodia has been no exception.

Three words summarize what makes Khmer cuisine so great: fresh, garlic and baay (rice).

In many ways, we’ve found Cambodian (Khmer) food to be quite similar to Vietnamese or Thai food—offering flavours of peanut, pineapple, coconut, and soy sauce (aka, salt). What differentiates Khmer food from that of its neighbours is mostly the spice; here the food is much tamer—especially when compared to Thai food. But what it lack in heat, it certainly compensates for in garlic, sauces (fish, oyster, and/or sweet chili sauce, etc.)

NOTE: Re. garlic, too much is never enough...we’re talking at least one head per meal. It is always sautéed in oil and added to sauces, and it truly is a beautiful thing. And, as always, when everyone’s eating it, then you’re all a winner; you just don’t want to be the odd man out.

(Above: minced garlic)

We’re pretty spoiled here. From Monday to Thursday when we live at Rescue, we have a wonderful woman who comes to cook for us. She is phenomenal (!!!)—both as a chef and a person. Her name is Oye, and she’s as eager to learn English and how to cook western food as we are Khmer. I teach her how to make muffins and icing, and we glean from her the secrets of stir-frys and salads.



As is custom here, every morning Oye goes to market to buy the necessary ingredients for the day’s meals. Whether you go to the finest restaurant in town, to market in search of your own ingredients, or to the corner joint to dine with the locals, it’s all the same: everything was either growing in the ground or running around on the ground 24 hours ago (sometimes they still are...clusters of flapping fish or clucking chickens—enjoying their final hours on earth—are available for the customers’ perusal and selection.) It is every health nut’s paradise: loads of veggies, endless supply of exotic fruit, and bags and bags of rice. That’s it! No MSG. No artificial flavouring. No Trans fats. No preservatives.

(Above: Dragon fruit...similar taste to kiwis)

But if you’re not into preparing your own meal, there is plenty of places to choose from for a meal out on the town.

Restaurants. They’re everywhere. In fact, there’s not a whole lot else to do in this city except eat...which we’re ok with. If you’re wanting to eat on the cheap, there’s many a pho shop to be found. For only $0.75, even the most frugal palettes can be entertained; though, you’re really getting what you pay for here: a plastic lawn chair on the shoulder of some busy street, the owner’s eight-year son wiping tables next to you, dubiously-clean eating utensils, and an even-more-questionable bowl of mystery meat soup. It does the trick.

If you’d rather something a few rungs higher on the culinary ladder, you’ll find hundreds of places that offer the classic Khmer dishes and a few western plates. These are the places we tend to enjoy. Some are good for the atmosphere (ie. a lizard-ridden garden, dining around a swimming pool, a rooftop overlooking the river), a few for the friendly service, and others for their notable specialties (tarantulas al dente, anyone?). All provide a host of flavours that leave you feeling glad to be alive, especially as you pay the bill ($2 to $3/person).

Then there’s those places that have you really dig deep in the wallet...anything over $5. Truthfully, we haven’t been to these places yet, but I’m sure they’re good too. It’s pretty easy to get accustomed to feasting for a buck or two, so when a place asks some atrocious sum, such as $7.00, you’ll have nothing of it!

Bottom line: from the most refined cuisinier, to the tightest penny-pincher, if you’re hungry—or just bored—Cambodia is a good place to be.

But if we want to be where the real action is, we’ll want to head to the market; though this will have to wait for another day...










PHNOM PENH

The city whose name’s pronunciation is a never-ending source of debate. The city that is home to somewhere between one to two million people—and about the same number of dogs. The city that is the capital of a country resurrecting from the ashes of the Pol Pot Regime. The city whose streets are an eddy of motos, tuk-tuks, and coconut vendors. The city whose scorching winter temperatures can feel like 40 degrees (with humidity). The city whose children run after every white person, calling out greetings. The city that we, after living in for over a month, think you ought to tour with us.

We’re not talking about an overview like those offered from Frommer’s or Lonely Planet; we want to give you a glimpse into some of the quirky everyday norms that make this city great.

If you’re anything like I was six months ago, I couldn’t tell you the first thing about this city…except maybe that it was the capital of Cambodia (unfortunately, I think that’s even being generous). And so, here’s a quick snippet of what a day spent in Phnom Penh might hold:

As in any city, transportation is key. Many predecessors who claimed Cambodia as their stomping grounds in the past left their fingerprints on this city in the form of street names. Charles de Gaulle Street. Russian Federation Boulevard. Mao Tse Tung Street. Rue de l’Europenne Union. The French built this city on a grid system, so navigating the streets isn’t too tough.

I’d say Phnom Penh’s streets are quasi-civilized. There are traffic lights, though no stop signs. Most of the roads are divided, though only 75% of drivers abide accordingly. There are sidewalks, though they tend to be free game for motorcycles (motos)...which are absolutely everywhere. If you’re Cambodian, male or female, old or young, and if you have at least one arm, most likely you have a moto. For one reason or another, no traffic laws seem to include them. Red lights? Don’t mean a thing. Maximum capacity of riders and freight? The more the merrier! Helmets? Nah.

If you’re a tourist, your main modes of transportation around Phnom Penh are:
1) Cyclos (a really skinny guy peddling a bike with you sitting in a one-man basket/trough in front on him…it’s scary being the one is front when he moseys into that busy intersection). You’ll pay about $0.25 to get anywhere in town on a cyclo;
2) Motos: We see about two moto accidents per week (most look pretty bad), so although they’re the most fun way to get around, it’s a bit of a gamble. For a moto, you’re looking at about a dollar;
3) Tuk-tuks…I’ll let the below photo explain this one. If you’re generous, a tuk-tuk will cost you $2 to get anywhere, or if you're shrewd, it's more like $1.50 (the art of bartering comes in handy). Most tuks are pretty standards, while a few--those that we call "lux tuks"--come decked out with Christmas lights, karaoke machines, and psychedelic paint jobs. Most tuks have only two benches, while a couple have three ("truck-tuks" or "tri-tierd tuks"). Above all, when it comes to selecting a mode of transportation, we like to give business to those who wear helmets (we figure if they value their heads, they're more likely to value ours) and/or blatantly support human rights.


(Above: yes, that's a real baby on the back...)






And for those brave souls who prefer transportation by foot, crossing the street is a whole other adventure. In Cairo you’d budget up to 10 minutes before you could safely cross one its busier roads; in Kolkata, it only took an outstretched arm and a courageous heart before you ventured forth. Here, it’s a little combination of the two. I don’t think they’d actually hit you, but I really don’t have any faith in the drivers here (see above comment re. moto accidents).

The price for a litre of gas in Phnom Penh is around $1.10. They do have your typical gas stations like those at home, but again, where there is a buck to be made, people quickly devise an alternative. Scattered along most major roads and highways are people who will sit from 7am to 10 at night offering gasoline (often laced with kerosene) for a “reduced” price.

Another thing you won’t wat to miss is the temples whose protruding golden rooftops litter the horizon; despite the heaping amount of debris that tends to clutter around these buildings, they are stunning. Around town you’ll see countless Buddhist Monks—clad in their saffron-coloured robes, with their alms bowls and umbrellas—meandering along the streets. Sometimes in pairs, and sometimes alone, they remind me of the endless row of ants marching one-by-one from my stove to the crack in the wall. Both seem bent on a very important mission...following the ones in front, leading those behind.


Another important fact of life to any major city is garbage removal. Back at home, it’s the rumbling sound of the approaching truck's engine that sends people to the curb with garbage and recycling in tow. Here, it’s a squeaky rubber toy and the sight of a man or woman walking their cart (often times toting their children and your neighbours’ empty beer cans). But unlike at home where if you miss your one shot you’re stuck for an entire week, here in Phnom Penh--where recyclables are traded for a few hundred reils (1 USD = 4000 rls)--these carts comb every street multiple times a day. What is one man’s trash is another’s treasure, right?

Another thing to mention is Cambodia’s take on telecommunication. Because of the Rhmer Rouge in the 1970’s, where much of Cambodia’s infrastructure was obliterated (including telephone lines), most Cambodians own cell phones. And like in many countries around the world, personal cell phones are quickly ousting public pay phones. In Phnom Penh, however, the people have devised a happy medium. Rather than a booth housing a public pay phone, people create their own booth on the street corner and offer their cell phones for use. A fusion between the technology and convenience of modernity with the habits from days of old. Users can make their calls as they need, and the attendants can earn a decent dollar.

Other sights, sounds and smells you’ll find here? While looking for a local substitute to fill the void from Tim Hortons' and Starbucks' absence, we stumbled upon Khmer coffee. A ladle of boiling water, a spoonful of Nescafe, and a dollop of sweetened condensed milk, all mixed together and tied within an ice-packed baggie with a protruding straw. All for about $0.30...Tim who?

...which appropriately leads us to Khmer cuisine—a realm of sheer bliss that is fully deserving of its own entry.

Jum-riab-lia!