PHNOM PENH

The city whose name’s pronunciation is a never-ending source of debate. The city that is home to somewhere between one to two million people—and about the same number of dogs. The city that is the capital of a country resurrecting from the ashes of the Pol Pot Regime. The city whose streets are an eddy of motos, tuk-tuks, and coconut vendors. The city whose scorching winter temperatures can feel like 40 degrees (with humidity). The city whose children run after every white person, calling out greetings. The city that we, after living in for over a month, think you ought to tour with us.

We’re not talking about an overview like those offered from Frommer’s or Lonely Planet; we want to give you a glimpse into some of the quirky everyday norms that make this city great.

If you’re anything like I was six months ago, I couldn’t tell you the first thing about this city…except maybe that it was the capital of Cambodia (unfortunately, I think that’s even being generous). And so, here’s a quick snippet of what a day spent in Phnom Penh might hold:

As in any city, transportation is key. Many predecessors who claimed Cambodia as their stomping grounds in the past left their fingerprints on this city in the form of street names. Charles de Gaulle Street. Russian Federation Boulevard. Mao Tse Tung Street. Rue de l’Europenne Union. The French built this city on a grid system, so navigating the streets isn’t too tough.

I’d say Phnom Penh’s streets are quasi-civilized. There are traffic lights, though no stop signs. Most of the roads are divided, though only 75% of drivers abide accordingly. There are sidewalks, though they tend to be free game for motorcycles (motos)...which are absolutely everywhere. If you’re Cambodian, male or female, old or young, and if you have at least one arm, most likely you have a moto. For one reason or another, no traffic laws seem to include them. Red lights? Don’t mean a thing. Maximum capacity of riders and freight? The more the merrier! Helmets? Nah.

If you’re a tourist, your main modes of transportation around Phnom Penh are:
1) Cyclos (a really skinny guy peddling a bike with you sitting in a one-man basket/trough in front on him…it’s scary being the one is front when he moseys into that busy intersection). You’ll pay about $0.25 to get anywhere in town on a cyclo;
2) Motos: We see about two moto accidents per week (most look pretty bad), so although they’re the most fun way to get around, it’s a bit of a gamble. For a moto, you’re looking at about a dollar;
3) Tuk-tuks…I’ll let the below photo explain this one. If you’re generous, a tuk-tuk will cost you $2 to get anywhere, or if you're shrewd, it's more like $1.50 (the art of bartering comes in handy). Most tuks are pretty standards, while a few--those that we call "lux tuks"--come decked out with Christmas lights, karaoke machines, and psychedelic paint jobs. Most tuks have only two benches, while a couple have three ("truck-tuks" or "tri-tierd tuks"). Above all, when it comes to selecting a mode of transportation, we like to give business to those who wear helmets (we figure if they value their heads, they're more likely to value ours) and/or blatantly support human rights.

(Above: yes, that's a real baby on the back...)

And for those brave souls who prefer transportation by foot, crossing the street is a whole other adventure. In Cairo you’d budget up to 10 minutes before you could safely cross one its busier roads; in Kolkata, it only took an outstretched arm and a courageous heart before you ventured forth. Here, it’s a little combination of the two. I don’t think they’d actually hit you, but I really don’t have any faith in the drivers here (see above comment re. moto accidents).

The price for a litre of gas in Phnom Penh is around $1.10. They do have your typical gas stations like those at home, but again, where there is a buck to be made, people quickly devise an alternative. Scattered along most major roads and highways are people who will sit from 7am to 10 at night offering gasoline (often laced with kerosene) for a “reduced” price.

Another thing you won’t wat to miss is the temples whose protruding golden rooftops litter the horizon; despite the heaping amount of debris that tends to clutter around these buildings, they are stunning. Around town you’ll see countless Buddhist Monks—clad in their saffron-coloured robes, with their alms bowls and umbrellas—meandering along the streets. Sometimes in pairs, and sometimes alone, they remind me of the endless row of ants marching one-by-one from my stove to the crack in the wall. Both seem bent on a very important mission...following the ones in front, leading those behind.

Another important fact of life to any major city is garbage removal. Back at home, it’s the rumbling sound of the approaching truck's engine that sends people to the curb with garbage and recycling in tow. Here, it’s a squeaky rubber toy and the sight of a man or woman walking their cart (often times toting their children and your neighbours’ empty beer cans). But unlike at home where if you miss your one shot you’re stuck for an entire week, here in Phnom Penh--where recyclables are traded for a few hundred reils (1 USD = 4000 rls)--these carts comb every street multiple times a day. What is one man’s trash is another’s treasure, right?

Another thing to mention is Cambodia’s take on telecommunication. Because of the Rhmer Rouge in the 1970’s, where much of Cambodia’s infrastructure was obliterated (including telephone lines), most Cambodians own cell phones. And like in many countries around the world, personal cell phones are quickly ousting public pay phones. In Phnom Penh, however, the people have devised a happy medium. Rather than a booth housing a public pay phone, people create their own booth on the street corner and offer their cell phones for use. A fusion between the technology and convenience of modernity with the habits from days of old. Users can make their calls as they need, and the attendants can earn a decent dollar.

Other sights, sounds and smells you’ll find here? While looking for a local substitute to fill the void from Tim Hortons' and Starbucks' absence, we stumbled upon Khmer coffee. A ladle of boiling water, a spoonful of Nescafe, and a dollop of sweetened condensed milk, all mixed together and tied within an ice-packed baggie with a protruding straw. All for about $0.30...Tim who?

...which appropriately leads us to Khmer cuisine—a realm of sheer bliss that is fully deserving of its own entry.

Jum-riab-lia!